Siem Riep: The Puok Silk Farm

I pity the silkworm. He or she spins his little cocoon and settles in for a bit of a nap, not knowing that, oops, that’s it, it’s the big sleep, the permanent goodbye. The worm’s self made house is what gives you that elegant tie, that beautiful scarf, those gorgeous pajamas. And after visiting the Puok Silk Farm outside of Siem Riep I had to wonder: Do political vegetarians wear silk?

They toss the little guy, house and all, into a cooking pot and tease out the strands of the cocoons with a wire whisk. That’s your basic silk fiber right there. While we were standing in front of the steaming cocoons, our guide asked N. if she’d like to try the worm. “You can eat them, you know.” N. said yes, and then, no, and I just stared at the pale yellow worms in their last jacuzzi. Yes, it’s naive and a little absurd, but I hadn’t the faintest idea about where silk comes from.

Les Artisans d’Angkor Puok Silk Farm is a 20 minute tuktuk ride from the center of Siem Riep. It’s surrounded by mulberry fields – that’s what the silkworms eat – and there’s an attractive exhibition facility. A guide greets you and walks you through the process of silk-making, from management of the worm herd (surely there’s a name for that) all the way to hand weaving gorgeous iridescent fabrics. It’s an open, breezy place full of chattering women and the clacking noise of the looms. When you’re done with the tour, the guide thanks you and parks you in the gift shop, of course, where you can buy expensive and beautiful things. I opted for coffee instead.

It’s worth the trip for the ride out there alone. It’s not exactly pleasant, but it’s interesting to head out the hotel lined business route. The big hotels give way to fields, water buffalo are plunged up to their noses in swampy ponds, kids in school uniforms ride three to a bike, kids in no uniforms at all, little ones, frolic in the weirs that manage the irrigation ditches. There are very few cars, plenty of scooters, and a horse cart or two. It’s fun to buzz along the dusty highway watching the countryside roll by.

Related:

• Treehugger has a blurb up about a silk process that’s nonfatal to the worms.
• Fabrics has a step by step list of how silk is made.
• I’ve posted a few photos from our visit to the silkfarm here.
• Here’s a guy who ate silkworms and lived to describe the whole nasty process.
• On Amazon: Lonely Planet Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos & the Greater Mekong (Lonely Planet Travel Guides)

[tags]Cambodia, Puok, silkworms, silk farm[/tags]