I went to college in San Jose, California and for a while, I lived just a few blocks from the San Jose State University campus. The neighborhood was a hodgepodge of working class Chinese and Mexican families and students. It wasn’t unusual to see a truck unloading big sides of pork – whole pigs split from snout to tail – outside the Asian market and it wasn’t unusual to stand in line 15 minutes just to order a burrito.
There were two places near campus – Super Taqueria – a counter service burrito joint that had great vats of beans always cooking for their righteous burritos – and Rincon Tarasco (I think that’s what it was called) that had home made tamales. Super Taq was a five minute walk from campus, tamales were a little too far away to walk, but someone often had a car. My fondness for Super Tac was such that it’s where we went right after graduation to get lunch, still in caps and gowns.
Since relocating to the Pacific Northwest, I’ve had to compromise on Mexican food. Sure, you can get a acceptable burrito at any one of the counter style places, Gorditos serves up some decent grub and I’ll put away a fish taco or two from Taco Del Mar. But let’s face it, it’s not the food I remembered from my California days. For the past – maybe it’s 14 years now – I’ve settled for less, save the rare trip out to Ooba’s in Redmond which probably serves the best Mexican food north of the 45th parallel. Or so I thought.
No one was speaking English at El Estacion, a good sign – it was Spanish, Spanish, and more Spanish. The big guy behind the counter has a friendly smile, though, so it’s not like you don’t feel welcome. There were two big families around raised grills with piles of onions and peppers and stuff for dipping, another family just past them. I wanted what they were having – the fajitas, it turned out – but I didn’t know what it was so I went for the old standbys.
The tamales are moist and stuffed with chicken that’s stewed in spicy green sauce, the meat for the tacos is cooked in some kind of chili red sauce and the tortillas are those little thick round corn ones. The salsa is fire, fire, and more fire, in red, for blazing and green for oh my god, I don’t think I can feel my tongue any more. The quesadilla wasn’t too heavy on the cheese or hidden under piles of fake guacamole or sour cream to make up for tasteless filling – it was just right.
The food comes out hot and fresh from behind the little counter, a girl in big lacquered earrings brings it to your table and if you’re me, which I am, asks you in Spanish who gets the agua fresca, which, by the way, comes in guava (yum) or horchata (something I’ve never acquired a taste for). Everything we ate was exactly 16 times better than anything I remember eating in California (it’s been a long time) and about a million times better than the best Mexican food I’ve eaten in the Pacific Northwest.
I loved this place – from the welcoming smiley guy at the counter who seems genuinely happy to see you to the pile of leftover corn husk wrappers piled up in the red plastic fast food basket of tortilla chips. I loved this place so much that I am currently wondering if I should go back and delete the name so that you never find it and it stays mine mine mine. Or, perhaps I should take everyone I know down there with me so I can say to them this: SEE! THIS is what Mexican food is supposed to be like! Not this flaccid, pale, sorry ass mossy on the underside stuff that passes for Mexican in the Pacific Northwest! THIS! THIS IS WHAT IT’S ABOUT!
A-hem. What I meant to say is this: I know where you can get quite a decent taco, if you’re so inclined. And some other good stuff too. If you’re jonesing for real Mexican food, give me a call – I’ll join you. Hell, I’ll drive. I can’t wait to go back. They have tortas, I’ll bet they kick ass.
Taqueria La Estacion is at 14820 Ambaum Blvd SW in Burien. That’s right, Burien. If you don’t want to take my word for the awesomeness, you can read some more glowing reviews here.
What great review, Pam. I have been away from California for more than 30 years and have given up trying to find the “real” Mexican food I remember from there. Perhaps with the increasing “latinization” of our area, we can look forward to more great places to eat. And yes, Burien does have its surprises!