Earlier this season, the Clelia II — an Antarctica expedition cruise ship — was rocked by big waves and lost an engine. There was some damage, the ship was escorted back to Ushuaia and trips were canceled. The best and most important part of the story is that no one was hurt, though I imagine the passengers were eager to be back in calmer seas.
This morning at 8:30 “my” ship, the Polar Star, hit a rock and was damaged. It’s not clear how badly she was damaged — a double hulled icebreaker, she’s built for exactly this kind of thing. Again, no one was hurt — that’s the important part — and the inner hull of the ship remains intact. There’s no oil leaking either, so not only are the passengers protected, but Antarctica’s pristine environment is as well. (Note: I’ll update this with more facts as they become available.)
My phone rang at about 10am. “I’ve got some news,” said Rick, my primary contact at TravelWild. “The Polar Star hit a rock. We don’t know what this means yet, but I thought you should know.” Later that day I got email assuring me that they’re on it, the staff expedition leader, Dennis, is hunting for a berth for me on another vessel should the Polar Star not be fit for my scheduled departure. I’m guessing it will be two or three days before we know for sure what’s going to happen. There are a lot of variables — how long it takes the Polar Star to return, the extent of the damage, if there’s a dock and materials immediately available to make the repairs…
I’m circumspect about the whole thing. A friend asked me the other day if I was ready to go. “I have my gear,” I said, “but as for emotional, metaphysical readiness? I don’t know if I’ll ever be ready.” The whole idea of traveling to Antarctica has been surreal from day one — I’ve felt like I’d believe I was going to Antarctica when I boarded the ship, and not a moment before.
While there’s some temptation to veer into frustration over the uncertainty of my situation, the Polar Star’s mishaps are a reminder that nature is in charge. The seas are dangerous and still unknown — the Polar Star hit, according to the IAATO press release, “an unsurveyed rock.” I’m not angry about this unexpected event. I’m glad I wasn’t on board, I’m glad those on board are safe, and I’m glad that my life is flexible enough to roll with whatever changes this may bring to my trip.
I have a little scrap of paper by my keyboard with a odds-and-ends list for my trip. Extra batteries, binoculars, sunscreen… it’s a list of the items that I haven’t yet gathered for my trip. I can, I think, be ready to go one load of laundry, a trip to the supermarket, and 72 hours later. Even if everything gets delayed to next season, I feel incredibly lucky to a) be invited in the first place and b) to have figured out a life that lets me leave for Antarctica on three days notice.
In the meantime, I’m keeping my fingers crossed that the damage is minor and I’ll be able to travel exactly as planned. And I’m learning, first hand, a critical lesson about Antarctica. It’s nature who decides what our experience there is like. To think otherwise is folly.
Update: The ship is on the way to the Shetlands, and then, after an inspection, back to Ushuaia. Apparently, “an underwater welding team is standing by.”
Photo: Me doing Gear Test II in our backyard after a December snow. In my hands, Frida the Penguin.
Pam, I’m so eager for you to go on this trip and to read about it. As you know, my father just died, and Antarctica was the only continent he never visited. I’m not sure I’ll ever make it there either but am looking forward to experiencing it vicariously via your posts.
Fingers (and toes) crossed for you.
Yep, it’s surreal. I hope it works out! Don’t sweat the details as long as you have those great boots and enough socks.
but but, I’m changing apartments and everything. You HAVE to come. To Santiago, not to Antarctica, but I hope that works out for you as well, of course! And agreed, glad that people and nature are as well as before ship hit “unsurveyed rock.”
I’m still baking in a Santiago stop, I’m planning on it!
Oh my. But I am so relieved that the passengers are fine and that the inner hull wasn’t damaged. I am all for IAATO’s increased regulations on ships regarding the position and protection of the fuel tanks, as well as the requirement for more environmentally friendly fuels being used on ships. Those waters – even the areas that are surveyed – are precarious with ice bergs and rocks hiding deep.
I’m really keeping my fingers crossed that they are able to do proper repairs to get the boat in shape in time for your planned visit. But if you don’t make it this year, you will make it sometime penguinistan. That I’m pretty sure about.
Well, crap almighty! I truly hope all works out. Having spent some time on seagoing vessels and experiencing various mishaps, I’m thinking your trip will proceed as planned. But hitting rocks kinda makes for a bad day at sea. Hang loose!
Here’s hoping you’ll set sail as planned…or close enough to it 🙂
Fingers crossed you make it!!!
Ah, weather & unforseen hurdles. Isn’t that part of the essential travel experience? A few years ago, I planned to head to Mexico for Day of the Dead, tied to a 5 day cooking class celebrating the traditional foods. I planned to leave a few days early to scuba dive in Cozumel, then head to my class. The day before I’m ready to leave, a hurricane parked itself over Cancun and stayed there for several days. The beach? Gone. Glass everywhere. Extensive hotel damage and no flights headed into Cozumel, period. All the surrounding airports were used to get people out–and allowed no non-essential incoming people. Finally, I caught a flight and arrived the night before my class. Cozumel was devastated and I think, if I had left a couple days sooner…
there’s one job i would SO not want, the underwater welding team, in those frigid waters. i’ll be crossing fingers – can’t wait to hear abt your SAFE journey!
Oh no! So much of a journey is tied up in the anticipation isn’t it? Really hope the ship is fixed or you get a spot on another boat…what a downer!
A valuable lesson learned, I think. It’s fascinating that travel to Antarctica still entails genuine risk.
Hope you and the uke made it on board OK in the end…
We’re ready when they are.
Absolutely loved this -> “Even if everything gets delayed to next season, I feel incredibly lucky to a) be invited in the first place and b) to have figured out a life that lets me leave for Antarctica on three days notice.”
The important thing is remaining grateful every single day!