The “punschkrapfen” — punch donut — is very much its own thing now, but my understanding is that once, it was what you did with your leftover cake. See, running a traditional Austrian bakery meant you were always fussing with your cake, slicing the top off so you could layer it on top of the other cake you’d also sliced the top off of. And hey, you’re Austrian, so you couldn’t just waste cake, that’s contrary to your frugal, resourceful nature. So you took all your leftover cake scraps and pressed them into a pan. Then, soaked them in rum punch, because scrap cake is not decadent enough, and also, you’re Austrian and some kind of booze is always handy. When your little cakelets had set up good and proper, you cut them into cubes, covered them in florid pink sugar icing, and sometimes, you even put a candied cherry on top. Because you’re Austrian and you’re kind of fancy.
Nowadays, punschkrapfen are made mostly with a yellow sponge cake exclusively for the purpose of, well, punschkrapfen, but at some bakeries, you’ll slice into one and see that it really is still a composite of — let’s say it again because it’s so absurd — leftover cake scraps.
I snapped this photo at the Demel Bakery counter in the Vienna airport. It’s on the C concourse and you need to know this just in case you’re only on a layover and don’t have time to go into town.
I have a special fondness for the Demel. One time, we stopped to get some cake to go — let’s say “cake to go” again, also, shall we? — on our way back to the valley where the husband is from. I was pacing back and forth in front of the glass and walnut bakery case; it looks more like a jewelry showcase than one for pastry. I couldn’t make up my mind about what I wanted. J was a little bit impatient with me. The waiter, a gentleman of a certain age in a snappy bow tie, immaculate white shirt, and tuxedo style waistcoat, turned to me and said — loud enough for J. to hear — “This is not a decision that needs to be rushed.”
The punschkrapfen is a good choice if you’re in a hurry, and they’re everywhere. They’re not my favorite Austrian cake, but they are iconic and you should have one. Or two. With a nice cup of tea.
When I was in Vienna in 2002, I kept snapping photos of the bakery display cases and windows because they were more stunning than Fifth Ave department storefronts at Christmas. High-end pastry porn everywhere and for free. It was my favorite part about the trip. And the 50 shades of grey Austrians perform on marzipan…wow…
Yeah, they are (ahem) hardcore. I’ve always thought the cakes looked sort of like hats, though, I’d compare them with the hat shops over the jewelers. Probably I should not ask if I can put that cake on my head to see if I like it, though.