You Can’t Take It With You

I travel a bit heavier than I used to. When I fly to Austria I usually have one bag that’s full of books, only. That takes up a significant amount of my luggage allotment. I don’t carry a lot of other stuff, I have a decent winter wardrobe in Austria and it’s not like you …


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How do you solve a problem like Maria?

Sound of Music, alternative version. Instead of belting out Climb Every Mountain, the Reverend Mother says, “Christ almighty, what took you so long? Now go change out of that silly dirndl, give the guitar to the orphans, and get down to the chapel, it’s almost time for Vespers!” Maria follows the instructions exactly and spends …


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Mozart and the Chocolate Factory

Back in January when we went to visit our friends in Germany, we asked them what we should bring from Austria. The answer? Mozartkugeln. Mozartkugeln (literally, Mozart Balls) are an Austrian national treat, a chocolate covered bomb of nougat, marzipan, and in most cases, pistachio marzipan too. They’re delish. Here’s the deal, though. We weren’t …


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Blessed Meat, Bonfires, and Blasphemy

I go to lots of churches but there’s never anyone in there when I’m poking around. I’m a sucker for iconography and medieval painting and crazy gothic interiors. Beautiful old churches – some of them so old as to have Roman foundations – are all over the place in Austria. This morning the church in …


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Yes, Virginia, there is a Matzoh Claus

I was rescued from the sadness of a Seder free spring by the woman who answered my mail to the synagogue in Graz. “Yes, there’s an event you can go to, you just need to email the synagogue, but why don’t you come to our house?” she asked. How could I refuse such a kind …


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The Year Without a Passover

For the last two weeks I have been hunting for a suitable Seder to attend and tragically, I have failed. When you look for community Seders in my Seattle home, you are presented with endless options — interfaith and conservative and gay and Sephardic and oh, there’s a whole Smorgasbord of Seders to choose from. …


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