The Shipping Blues

“Seasickness: at first you are so sick you are afraid you will die, and then you are so sick you are afraid you won’t die.” — Mark Twain “It’s the price of admission.” Clemens, the penguin guy, and I were talking about crossing the Drake. He’d told me that his daughter gets seasick something terrible, …


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The Time I Fell into a Hole

The plan was to see the Museum of Precolombian Art, get some lunch downtown, and then, do a bit more museum time elsewhere. I would head back to Eileen‘s place after a good wander, and then, later that afternoon, we would go to the Hilton to meet my friend Andrew, who had serendipitously arrived in …


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Zodiac Ride

I shot this with a Pansonic Lumix. I was on my knees on the floor of the Zodiac, hanging my arms over the edge of the boat. Video misbehaving? Here’s a link.

On Amazement

a·maze·ment /əˈmeɪzmənt/ [uh-meyz-muhnt] –noun 1. overwhelming surprise or astonishment. 2. Obsolete. a. stupefaction; frenzy. b. perplexity. c. consternation. “You’re going to need to new adjectives.” This is (again) Dennis Mense, a veteran Antarctic expedition leader to me, prior to my trip south. He was right, and I hear him again, in my head, often, as …


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Getting it Wrong

“Oh my god, you’re going to FREEZE!” I heard this over and over and over in the lead up to my trip to Antarctica. Less hyperbolic pals had more practical advice. “More poof,” said Peter, referring to my lack of a fluffy down jacket. “You have room, take the ridiculous hat. And that’s not that …


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Seven

My travel expenses to Antarctica were covered by TravelWild, a Seattle area travel operator specializing in adventure cruises.  I slumped back into my chair, overwhelmed. My seat at the window faced the stern, we were sliding past giant blue glaciers, their cracked faces a wall above the blue black mirror of the Lemaire Channel. I …


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