Advice for the Ice

In preparing for my trip to Antarctica, I’ve asked previous travelers to share their best advice for my adventure. I’ve been looking for stuff outside the tour material — which is all good, mind you, but not too terribly insightful. I want to know what travelers wish they had, or would do differently, or just …


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One of These Things is Not Like the Other

Pictured: Gadgets and whatnots for my blogging trip to Antarctica. Uke tuner: I tune because I care. Sopranino ukulele. From the delightful Maggie, this little uke is to remain shipboard with the crew after my journey. Cable 1: For the Nikon battery charger Cable 2: For the external hard drive Battery 1: Extended battery for …


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Departure for Antarctica in 17 Days. Or Not.

Earlier this season, the Clelia II — an Antarctica expedition cruise ship — was rocked by big waves and lost an engine. There was some damage, the ship was escorted back to Ushuaia and trips were canceled. The best and most important part of the story is that no one was hurt, though I imagine …


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A Lazy Winter in Maremma

We did not mean to sit so still, but we had plenty of time. Why would we rush around to see everything when we could stay as long as we wanted? The stone house was cold in the morning. We stayed under piles of blankets until we could hear the fire. Then, we went to …


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Back to Austria in 2011

When I fell in love with my husband (we met on a trip across the Australian outback), I began series of long haul flights between Seattle and Vienna or Salzburg. On my first trip I went for two weeks, or maybe it was three, and my trips got longer and longer. After a while, I …


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Antarctica Gear Test v1.0

I’m wearing: A very old hat given to me by a friend shortly before I moved to Seattle. “It’s COLD up there.” Uh, it’s not Alaska. But thanks? A raincoat from the Tschibo in Austria. It’s got a lightweight zip in fleece vest. It’s soon to be retired. Outdoor Research mitts: I’ve had them forever. …


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